Life, death and afterlife at Pashupatinath (updated)


Sowing of Satbeej in progress at Pashupatinath during Balachaturdashi.

On that day, there was a kind of construction frenzy in front of the Vishwaruup temple at the Pashupatinath area. 

Construction frenzy at a UNESCO-designated world heritage site? You must be kidding, hallucinating under the influence of weed or daydreaming. If construction work was going on in the UNESCO-designated site, what were all those capable officials of the Pashupati Area Development Trust doing? That is what you guys will most probably say. 

Well, yours truly was not kidding nor he was under the influence of any kind nor daydreaming. Trying to whet your appetite for this piece, that is what yours truly was doing. 

Got bored? Okay then. Without spinning the yarn any further, lemme talk about the 'construction frenzy' on that day. 

What day was it? It was the day of Balachaturdashi. 

On the said ‘site’, even grown-ups were acting like children. They would lay one or two bricks or stones for the 'foundation' and add a couple more above them. 

This indeed reminded yours truly of a game called 'run' that we used to play back in our village. For this game, we would make a similar structure using pebbles, run and chase friends. 

For winning the game, the player had to either hit one of the players or the rickety structure, causing its collapse. After that, the player receiving the hit would do the chasing, while other players would do the running part. 

What amazed yours truly was that these folks were not playing that 'ball game'. Instead, they were busy 'playing' a whole new ball game. 

‘When in Shleshmantak, do as the Shleshmantiks do’. That is what the child in yours truly told him.

The temple of Lato Ganesh at Pashupatinath.

So, yours truly ‘rolled up’ his sleeves, went about searching for pebbles and bricks, chose a construction site close to the temple of Bahiro Ganesh (This Ganesh is hard of hearing, so you have to scream a bit to make yourself heard! Am I right, subject experts?).

What made yours truly sad was that humanity was busy pulling down structures that others had built to create ‘high-rises’ of their own.

While engaging in the ‘construction work’, yours truly struck up conversation with fellow sapiens.

‘K garne? Yasai garnu parchha’.  

(What to do? This is what we should do)  Saying this, a fellow sapien ‘raged’ a structure and erected ‘his own’ structure on the same site, thereby erasing a tiny bit of history. You can have an eyeful of the houses built for the dead below: 

                    

While this selfish game was going on, monkeys of Shleshmantak were watching with keen interest. Remember, there’s a proverb in Nepali: Monkeys neither build their houses nor let others build their own. If the apes knew, they would laugh their hearts out at this joke. It’s sad that monkeys have no sense of humour, sadder that humans do.

Without running a sweat, yours truly built two structures, typical middle-class ones, by the side of the Bahiro Ganesh temple. Though a sceptic to the core, yours truly had this faint belief that Bahiro Ganesh would somehow protect those modest ‘dwellings’, that no bull-dozer would thunder into the midnight to rage them.

Work over,  yours truly had a small chat with fellow sapiens. According to some of them, these structures were meant for pitris (our ancestors).

Okay, the ancestors also need modest dwellings, if not high-rises. And they need them at the sacred woods of Shleshmantak, a bit from the hustle and bustle of city life. That makes perfect sense, doesn’t it?

On the day of Balachaturdashi, the faithfuls sow different kinds of seeds called Satbeej at the Pashupatinath area. It is believed that pitris feed into the sacred crops grown thus.

While following a ‘Bagmati’ (of the yore, of course) of humanity along the sacred trail on that day, yours truly observed that huge quantities of seeds sown for pitris had become dust under the crushing feet of milling humanity!

Even for the sake of rituals, would it not be good to sow these seeds in the woods and not along the walkways?

Anyway, inching along the sacred ‘Satbeej trail’ on the day of Balachaturdashi with a swollen river of humanity was quite an enlightening experience for yours truly.

Returning ‘home’ via the Guheshwori Temple-Mrigasthali-Shleshmantak forest, the Aryaghat (crematorium) and the Vriddhashram (the government-run old-age home) somehow reminded yours truly of the journey of life. The Shleshmantak woods reminded him of the afterlife, the crematoriums of death and the old-age home as the sunset of the journey called life.

It is indeed the duty of the state to care for the unborn, the living and the dead.

Yours truly advises our capable officials and policymakers to visit this trail every now and then. How about talking a walk in the Sleshmantak woods and thinking about life in general, especially of the multitudes? How about stopping at those crematoriums and pondering how hard it is to live – and harder still to die? Inquiring about the state of the old-age home and the plight of its inhabitants? Yours truly hopes that such visits will enlighten them and enable them to formulate and implement policies that address the needs of the unborn, the living and the dead.

 Text and pictures: Devendra Gautam

Published in The Rising Nepal on 2021.12.24: https://epaper.gorkhapatraonline.com/pdf?file=%2Fuploads%2Ffile%2F2021%2F12%2Ffriday-suppliment%2F2021-12-24-01-26-32-friday.pdf&fbclid=IwAR2f7C92hoEJa0aGPQ9ySvErjoQQ5ZSLXb408lxqGJbFwuZXBEWSjQGpssY



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